Vilafamés

Vilafamés is built of rust-red sandstone on a hill in the Castellón interior, and it is one of the prettiest villages in Spain - officially, it's on the list. Its landmark is absurd and wonderful: the Roca Grossa, a two-thousand-tonne boulder that leans over a street and has refused to fall for as long as anyone has recorded.

Inside the fifteenth-century Palau del Batle, the village keeps its secret weapon: a museum of contemporary art with works by Miró, Chillida, and the Spanish avant-garde - a collection a city would envy, hung in a Gothic palace in a village of under two thousand people.

We walk the red lanes to the castle, stand under the rock, and take the museum at whatever pace your group enjoys. Art people and village people both leave happy.